The Best Food in Budapest: Markets, Ruin Bars and Langos
The best food in Budapest, from langos and goulash to the Central Market Hall, ruin bar plates and chimney cake, with tips on where to eat and what it costs.
From the blog
The best food in Budapest, from langos and goulash to the Central Market Hall, ruin bar plates and chimney cake, with tips on where to eat and what it costs.
Where to eat in Sarajevo, from cevapi with warm somun to burek, Bosnian coffee and begova corba. A food guide to the city's old town and what it all costs.
An Istanbul food guide from the ground: the Turkish breakfast, balik ekmek by the water, meze with raki, simit and baklava, and the best neighbourhoods to eat.
A Krakow food guide from someone who ate on a budget: pierogi, the old milk bars, zapiekanka on Plac Nowy, zurek in a bread bowl and the obwarzanek on every corner.
Things to do in Albania from my own trips: Tirana and the Bunk'art bunkers, the Blue Eye, the beaches at Ksamil and Sarande, plus Gjirokaster and Berat.
The best things to do in Berat: the old Ottoman quarters Mangalem and Gorica, a castle people still live in, the Osum river, byrek and local wine.
The best things to do in Budva, Montenegro: the walled old town, Mogren beach, the citadel view and a day trip to Sveti Stefan, from my own coast trips.
The best things to do in Dubrovnik: walking the old town walls, the Stradun, the cable car up Srd, Lokrum island, swimming below the walls and beating the crowds.
The best things to do in Jajce: the waterfall right in the middle of town, the old fortress, the Pliva watermills and the lakes, from my own trip through Bosnia.
The best things to do in Piran, Slovenia: Tartini Square, the old town walls, swimming off the rocks, fresh fish and sunset, from my own trips to the coast.
What not to miss in Sarajevo: the Tunnel of Hope, the Sarajevo roses, Bascarsija, the Yellow Fortress at sunset and where to eat the best cevapi.
The best things to do in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria: the Tsarevets fortress, the old town above the Yantra, the craft street, the light show and Arbanasi.
The best things to do in Zadar: the Sea Organ, the Greeting to the Sun, the Roman forum, the old town on the peninsula and the famous sunset, from my own trips.
The best things to do in Zakopane, Poland: Krupowki street, the hike to Morskie Oko, the Gubalowka funicular and the wooden mountain town architecture.
What to eat in Prague, from svickova and goulash to bread dumplings and beer gardens, plus where to find real Czech food away from the tourist stalls.
Where to eat in Belgrade, from old kafanas and grilled cevapi to burek breakfasts and the markets. My own picks for food, rakija and a good night out.
Where to eat in Split without the tourist markup: the konobas, the fresh fish and seafood, peka, Dalmatian wine and the market where locals actually shop.
Where to eat in Tirana: byrek, tave kosi, grilled meat and garden vegetables, plus the Pazari i Ri market and a coffee culture that runs the whole day. And it is cheap.
The best day trips from Prague: Kutna Hora, Cesky Krumlov, Karlovy Vary and the cliffs of Bohemian Switzerland, with notes on getting there by train or car.
The best things to do in Istanbul: Sultanahmet sights, Bosphorus ferries, bazaars, Beyoglu, Kadikoy, food and how I structure a day. Real tips from my trips.
A Gaziantep food guide from the road: the baklava, the kebabs and the dishes that made this UNESCO gastronomy city the best place I have eaten in Turkey.
How many days in Istanbul do you need? My answer plus a full day-by-day itinerary, from the old city to the Asian side, from someone who keeps returning.
Is Rome overrated? My take on the crowds, the new Trevi Fountain fee, the best time to go, how to dodge the worst of it and the day trips worth taking.
Tallinn to Helsinki by ferry takes about two hours. Operators, schedules, prices with and without a car, how to book, and what to do on board, from my trips.
The best things to do in Belgrade: the fortress above two rivers, famous nightlife, the Danube and Sava river clubs, where I eat and my own local tips.
The best things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina: Sarajevo's old town, Mostar's Old Bridge, Travnik's coloured mosque and the mountains, from my own trip.
The best things to do in Bucharest: the Palace of the Parliament, the lively old town, green parks and nightlife, picked from my own trips to Romania's capital.
The best things to do in Budapest: thermal baths, Buda vs Pest, ruin bars, castle views and the Danube, from a Dutch traveller who rates Hungary near the top.
The best things to do in Bulgaria: ancient Plovdiv, Rila Monastery, the Black Sea coast and the mountains, in one of Europe's best value and quietest countries.
The best things to do in Chisinau: leafy parks, Soviet-era boulevards, a busy market and the underground wine cellars of Cricova and Milestii Mici nearby.
The best things to do in Croatia: Dubrovnik's walls, Split, the Dalmatian islands, Plitvice Lakes and Istria, plus practical tips on summer crowds and timing.
The best things to do in Czechia: Prague, fairytale Cesky Krumlov, lively Brno, Moravian wine and the beer. My own guide to seeing it beyond the capital.
The best things to do in Estonia: medieval Tallinn, student-city Tartu, quiet islands, Lahemaa's bogs and the border town of Narva, from my own trips.
The best things to do in Gdansk: the colourful Long Market, amber on Mariacka Street, the Solidarity history and easy day trips, from my own trips to Poland.
The best things to do in Germany: Berlin, Bavaria and the castles, the Rhine, the Black Forest and Saxon Switzerland, from my own trips across the country.
The best things to do in Hungary: Budapest, Lake Balaton, the wine towns of Eger and Tokaj and the thermal baths. My guide to the whole country in one trip.
The best things to do in Kotor: the walled old town, the fortress climb with that view, the Bay of Kotor and how to dodge the midday cruise-ship crowds.
The best things to do in Krakow: Main Square, Wawel Castle, Kazimierz, food and the Auschwitz and Wieliczka day trips, based on my own trips to the city.
The best things to do in Lake Bled: the island church, Bled Castle, the famous cream cake, Vintgar Gorge and quiet Lake Bohinj, plus how to plan your visit.
The best things to do in Lithuania: Vilnius, Uzupis, Trakai Castle, the Curonian Spit, Kaunas and the Hill of Crosses, from a Dutch traveller who goes back.
The best things to do in Ljubljana: the old town, the castle, riverside cafes and an easy Lake Bled day trip, from my own trips to Slovenia's capital.
The best things to do in Moldova: Chisinau, the giant underground wine cellars, Orheiul Vechi and Transnistria, with practical tips from my trips to Moldova.
The best things to do in Montenegro: the Bay of Kotor, beaches and old towns on the coast, and the mountains and canyons inland. My one week road trip plan.
The best things to do in Mostar: the Stari Most bridge, the old bazaar and the nearby waterfalls. My guide to how I spend one day in town, or better, two.
The best things to do in Narva: two castles facing each other across the river, a Russian border you can see from the bank, and a Russian-speaking city.
The best things to do in Nis: the riverside fortress, the sobering Skull Tower and Constantine's birthplace, plus tips from my trip to southern Serbia.
The best things to do in North Macedonia from my own trip: Lake Ohrid, Matka Canyon and Skopje's Old Bazaar, plus when to go and how to get around the country.
The best things to do in Novi Sad: Petrovaradin Fortress, the EXIT festival and the old centre, plus my tips for an easy day trip from Belgrade in Serbia.
The best things to do in Ohrid: swim in the lake, see the clifftop church of St John Kaneo and get lost in the old town, all from my trips to North Macedonia.
The best things to do in Plovdiv: a Roman theatre still in use, a hillside old town and the creative Kapana district, from my trips to Bulgaria's second city.
The best things to do in Poland: Krakow, Warsaw, Gdansk, the Tatras and the food. My guide from several trips, with a simple ten-day route you can copy.
The best things to do in Prague: Charles Bridge at sunrise, the castle, the old town and how to dodge the crowds, written by someone who keeps coming back.
The best things to do in Riga: the UNESCO old town, Art Nouveau streets and the huge Central Market, plus where I eat. My guide from a Baltics regular.
The best things to do in Romania: Bucharest, Transylvania's walled towns, the Carpathians and painted monasteries, plus when to go and how long to stay.
The best things to do in Serbia: Belgrade's raw energy, Novi Sad's fortress views, the friendly south and real value, from a Dutch traveller who returns.
The best things to do in Skopje: the divisive statues of the centre, the Ottoman old bazaar and a Matka Canyon day trip. Tips from my own trips to the city.
The best things to do in Slovenia: Ljubljana, Lake Bled, the turquoise Soca valley, big caves and a tiny coast. My country guide with a one-week plan.
The best things to do in Split: Diocletian's Palace, the Riva, Marjan hill and the islands, plus the day trips I would happily book again on my next visit.
The best things to do in Switzerland: the panoramic trains, the mountain bases and the lakes, plus a clear picture of what the country really costs to visit.
The best things to do in Tallinn: the medieval old town, Toompea hill and Telliskivi, plus winter tips and a Helsinki day trip, all from my own visits.
The best things to do in the Dolomites: Tre Cime, Seceda, Alpe di Siusi and Lake Braies, plus where to stay and when to go, from someone who keeps returning.
The best things to do in Tirana: painted buildings, cold-war bunkers, Skanderbeg Square and the Blloku nightlife, all from my own trips to Albania's capital.
The best things to do in Transylvania: Brasov, Sibiu, Sighisoara, the castles and the Saxon villages, all from my own trips and with the Dracula myth in check.
The best things to do in Turkey: Istanbul, Cappadocia, the Aegean and Mediterranean coast, Ephesus and the food, with a simple route from my own trips.
The best things to do in Vienna: imperial palaces, famous coffee houses, a walk along the Ring and great art, all from my own trips to the Austrian capital.
Things to do in Vilnius: the huge old town, the Uzupis republic, a former prison and a day trip to Trakai, all from my own trips to Lithuania's capital.
The best things to do in Warsaw: the rebuilt Old Town, the Praga district, the parks and the food, from someone who keeps coming back to Poland's capital.
The best things to do in Wroclaw: the huge market square, the hunt for bronze dwarfs and quiet Cathedral Island. My take on Poland's most playful city.
Istanbul travel beats Paris, London and Rome for me: two continents, cheap great food, ferries, deep history and real atmosphere. Here is why I'd pick it.