Prague keeps pulling me back

I have been back to Prague more times than I can count, and it still gets me every time. This is the guide to the best things to do in Prague that I wish I had when I first landed. It covers the big sights, the quiet corners and the small habits that let you enjoy a very popular city without getting stuck in a crowd.

Is Prague worth visiting?

Yes. Prague looks even better in real life, with red rooftops, baroque facades, a river running through the middle and a pub on nearly every corner. It is built to be walked and enjoyed outside.

It is popular, though, and a few places get very busy. That is no reason to skip it. The crowds are concentrated in a small area, and once you know where, you can plan around them. Everything below is how I do it.

Charles Bridge at sunrise

Charles Bridge is the postcard shot, and between ten in the morning and six in the evening it is a slow shuffle of selfie sticks. Go at sunrise instead. It is pedestrian only, lined with its 30 statues, and at 6 a.m. you can practically have it to yourself. The light on the river and the castle in the distance is the best start to a day in the city.

If you only set one alarm on your trip, make it this one. After the bridge, grab a coffee on the Mala Strana side and watch the city wake up.

Prague Castle and Mala Strana

Prague Castle is one of the largest castle complexes in the world, and the walk up gives you the red rooftops spread out below. Go when it opens, before the tour groups arrive. St. Vitus Cathedral is my favourite part, and the courtyards are worth wandering even if you skip the paid interiors.

On the way down, take your time in Mala Strana, the quiet district under the castle. The lanes are steep, the gardens are hidden behind gates, and it is far calmer than the old town on the other bank. If you want a break from stone and cobbles, take the slow route up Petrin Hill. The park is shady, the views are great, and you can pretend you are far from the city even though you are right in it.

Prague Old Town without the stampede

The Prague old town is the reason most people come, and I get it. The Old Town Square is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe, and the astronomical clock on the town hall, dating back to the early fifteenth century, still puts on its little show every hour during the day. The square in front of it is wall to wall on the hour.

I see the clock once, then step away. The best of the old town is in the side streets, so get lost on purpose. Duck into the courtyards and wander the lanes behind the square in the early evening, when the day-trippers have left. The area is at its best at golden hour, when the light turns the facades a warm honey colour and the noise finally drops a notch.

The Letna view and other easy wins

If you want things to do in Prague beyond a checklist of monuments, head for the water and the green.

Walk up to Letna Park. It sits on the hill across the river from the old town, and the view over the Vltava and its bridges is the best free show in the city, especially at sunset. The beer garden up there is my favourite place for a plastic cup of Czech lager and a bench with a view.

Rent a rowboat or pedalo on the Vltava. The river is the heart of the city, and seeing the bridges and the castle from the water is a different experience from seeing them from the bank.

On a warm evening the embankments fill with people sitting with drinks and watching the sun go down. Join them. It costs nothing and it is one of my favourite Prague moments, ideally with whatever the locals order, which is usually a plain Czech lager. Czech beer culture is serious, and drinking under old trees is the correct way to do it.

How I dodge the crowds

Prague crowds are predictable, which is the good news. My rules are simple:

• Do the big sights early or late, and spend the busy middle of the day in a park, a museum or a shaded courtyard.
• Walk ten minutes in any direction away from the main tourist route. The crowds thin out fast.
• Eat a few streets away from the square. The food is usually better and the prices are kinder.

Seasons matter too. Summer is lively, but July can climb into the thirties and many central hotels have no air conditioning, so check before you book. Late spring and early autumn give you the same atmosphere with fewer people, and winter is cold, beautiful and quiet. I have enjoyed Prague in every season, I just plan the day differently.

If you have a spare day, a train out of the city is an easy way to escape the heat and the crowds. Kutna Hora, with its famous bone church, is about an hour away and makes a good half day. Keep the rest of the trip for Prague itself, though, because the city rewards slow days.

Plan your wider trip

Prague works well as the start of a bigger route. For more cities, castles and local tips, browse my Czechia guides. If you are building a longer loop, my Austria guides are a natural next stop from here.