Old towns, islands and forests: a trip across Estonia

If you asked me which small country surprised me most, I would say Estonia without thinking twice. I came for a weekend in a pretty old town and left with a list of places I still want to go back to. Here are the best things to do in Estonia, based on my own trips: where to start, where to slow down, and where to stand at the edge of Europe and wave across a river.

Is Estonia worth visiting?

Yes, and more than people expect. Estonia is small, so you can combine a medieval capital, a university town, forest, bog, coast and islands in one trip without spending your holiday in a car. The country uses the euro, English is widely spoken, and everything is easy to organise.

It is also quieter than most of Europe. Outside Tallinn I often had a trail, a beach or a manor house almost to myself. If you like places that are calm but not boring, you will get along with Estonia.

Tallinn: the medieval start

Most trips begin in Tallinn, and I understand why. The old town is one of the best preserved medieval centres in Northern Europe, with town walls, towers, cobbled lanes and church spires that look like a film set. Walk it early in the morning, before the day trippers arrive, and it feels like yours.

Then leave the old town. Telliskivi and the neighbourhoods around it are full of coffee places, street art and small shops in old industrial buildings. The contrast between the two sides of the city is the charm. I wrote a full breakdown in my Tallinn article, so use that for the details and use this page for the bigger picture.

Tartu: the student city

Take the bus south to Tartu and the mood changes. This is Estonia’s university city, and you feel it in the cafes, the bookshops and the riverside parks. Tartu was a European Capital of Culture in 2024, and the city still carries that energy, with galleries, festivals and a young crowd that keeps things lively.

Give it at least a night. I like Tartu for slow days: a long breakfast, a walk around the old university buildings, a picnic on Toome Hill and a beer somewhere with live music. Of all the places I visited, it is where Estonia feels most like a normal place to live, and I like that about it.

Lahemaa National Park: forest, coast and manors

If you want nature close to Tallinn, go to Lahemaa National Park on the northern coast. It was the first national park in Estonia and it has pine forest, rocky shoreline, fishing villages and old manor houses in one area. The boardwalks through the bogs are my favourite part. You walk over wet, silent land in the middle of a forest, a long way from any city.

You can visit as a day trip, but with a car and a night in a guesthouse you will see much more. Bring a rain jacket and mosquito spray in summer, and do not rush it.

The Estonian islands: Saaremaa and Hiiumaa

The islands are where I slow down the most. Saaremaa is the bigger one, with windmills, juniper meadows, a proper medieval castle in Kuressaare and a coastline that goes on and on. Hiiumaa is smaller and even sleepier, with lighthouses, empty beaches and a reputation for doing absolutely nothing very well.

You reach both by ferry, and the ferry ride is part of the trip. A car or a bike makes life much easier, because distances are real and public transport is limited. Plan at least two nights on Saaremaa if you can. If you only have a few days in Estonia, this is the part I would trade a city for.

Narva: waving at Russia

Narva is the strangest stop of all. It sits in the far east of Estonia, and across the river you can see Russia. The Estonian castle and the Russian fortress stand on opposite banks, almost close enough to shout across, and the promenade between them is one of the most surreal walks I have done in Europe. The clip at the top of this article was filmed there.

It is not a postcard town. It is a Soviet-era city with a complicated story, and many people there speak Russian at home. That is a reason to visit. Read my Narva article before you go for context and practical tips, and be respectful: this is somebody’s hometown.

How to put an Estonia itinerary together

My order is simple: start in Tallinn, add Tartu, take a day or two in Lahemaa, then spend your slow days on the islands. Narva fits best if you have a week or more and want something different from the usual Baltic route.

Estonia also runs differently from most countries. It is known worldwide for e-Estonia, where most public services, from taxes to voting, happen online. As a traveller you notice it in small ways: parking apps, digital tickets, and public wifi that simply works.

Estonia pairs well with its neighbours. If you have more time, continue south to Latvia or go all the way down to Lithuania for a full Baltic trip. I keep adding notes from the road, so browse all my Estonia guides for more routes, tips and places to stay. And if you have been to Estonia, tell me your favourite spot. I am always looking for the next reason to go back.