Why Niš is worth a detour in southern Serbia

Most people who travel through Serbia see Belgrade, maybe Novi Sad, and then head for the border. On my last trip I went south instead and ended up in Nis, a city that barely appears in guidebooks. I came for one night and stayed longer. Here are the best things to do in Nis, based on what I saw, what moved me and what I would do again.

Is Nis worth visiting?

Yes, if you like cities that feel lived in rather than polished for tourists. Nis is the biggest city in southern Serbia, with a university crowd, busy cafes and a pace that is noticeably more relaxed than the capital. Nobody tried to sell me anything. People got on with their day and were happy to chat when I asked for directions.

It also has real depth. Nis is one of the oldest cities in the Balkans, and Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and Serbs all left something behind. You can cover the main sights comfortably in a day or two, which makes it an easy stop between Belgrade and the south.

Walk the Nis fortress by the river

The Nis fortress is the easiest place to start. It sits right by the Nisava river, close to the centre, and you can walk in without any fuss. The walls and gates you see today are Ottoman, built in the early 1700s, but the ground underneath has been fortified for far longer.

I like that it is a living space and not a closed museum. Locals jog along the walls, sit under the trees and drink coffee in the cafes inside. I wandered through the old gates, looked at the remains of the bathhouse and the armoury, and watched the light change on the stone in the late afternoon. If you only do one thing in Nis, make it this, and give it at least an hour or two.

Follow Constantine and Roman Naissus

History lovers come here for Constantine. The Roman emperor known as Constantine the Great was born in Naissus, the Roman city that became modern Nis. The city is proud of it: the airport carries his name, and a large monument to him stands in the centre.

To see Roman Nis for yourself, visit the Mediana archaeological site on the edge of town. It is a former Roman residential complex with mosaics and the foundations of a large villa, and it gave me a much better sense of how important this place once was. It is quiet there, which I liked. Give it an hour or so, and go on a dry day, because most of it is open air.

Visit the Skull Tower and the memorials

Not everything in Nis is easy to look at, and I want to treat this part with care. The Skull Tower, known locally as Cele Kula, is a war memorial. After the Battle of Cegar in 1809, the Ottoman authorities built a tower using the skulls of Serbian fighters, as a warning to others. Only a small number of the skulls remain today, set into the walls of a small chapel built to protect them.

I went in quietly, and I would suggest you do the same. The visit is short but heavy, and it explains a lot about how Serbs remember their struggle for freedom.

Nis also has memorials to the Second World War. The Red Cross concentration camp, run by the Nazi occupiers, is now a museum and memorial site, and it records the suffering of the prisoners held there. Not far from the city, the Bubanj memorial park honours people who were killed in mass executions during the war. These are not places for photos or quick stops. I took my time, read the information and left grateful for how peaceful the city is now. If you only have a day, I would still make room for at least one of them.

Eat on Kazandzijsko Sokace

After the heavier sights you will want somewhere warm and loud, and Kazandzijsko Sokace is exactly that. This old street was once home to coppersmiths and craftsmen. Today it is lined with small restaurants, bars and terraces, and in the evening it fills with people eating, drinking and talking over each other.

I ate grilled meat, fresh bread and salads that tasted properly of vegetables, and washed it down with a glass of local rakija. Portions are generous, and the atmosphere is the real draw. Even on a weeknight the street had a buzz. If you want to know what southern Serbia feels like after dark, spend your evening here.

Getting around and practical tips

Nis works well as a hub for the south. It has a train and bus station, a small airport and good road links. The historic centre is compact, and I walked almost everywhere. For Mediana, a short taxi or local bus ride does the job.

Serbia uses the dinar. Cards are accepted in many places, but I kept some cash for small cafes and taxis. Spring and early autumn were the best seasons for walking the fortress and sitting outside in the evenings. Two nights is enough for the main sights, and three lets you add Mediana at a slower pace. Dress simply at the memorials and keep your voice low. A few words of Serbian, like hvala for thank you, go a long way.

From Nis you can keep moving towards the border. The road east leads to Bulgaria, which I cover in my Bulgaria guides. To plan the rest of your route, browse all my Serbia guides for city tips and notes from my trips.

My verdict on Nis

I left Nis feeling that this is how a city should be: old, unpolished and not trying too hard. It gave me Roman history, a handsome fortress, a sobering lesson at the Skull Tower and some of my best evenings in the Balkans. If you are still asking whether Nis is worth visiting, I hope this answers it.