Mostar and Its Famous Old Bridge

Is Mostar worth visiting?

Yes, and I would give it more than a quick photo stop. Plenty of people tick Mostar off as a day out from the Croatian coast. Every time I have gone back, though, the best moments came after the tour buses left, when I walked the cobbled lanes in the evening and the city slowed down around me.

Mostar sits on the Neretva river in the south of Bosnia and Herzegovina. You feel the Ottoman past in the stone, the mosques and the coffee, and the recent history in buildings that still carry bullet marks. This guide covers the best things to do in Mostar, the way I would plan them for a friend.

See the Stari Most bridge

The Stari Most is the reason most people come, and it earns its reputation. It is a single high stone arch over the green river, built in the 16th century under the Ottomans. The original was destroyed in the war in the 1990s and then carefully rebuilt, finished in 2004. The old town and bridge area are now on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

See it twice. Cross it in the middle of the day to feel the crowd, then come back early in the morning or at dusk. Centuries of feet have polished the stone smooth, so wear shoes with decent grip.

You will probably also spot the bridge divers. Local young men jump from the top into the cold river, and it is a real local tradition, not just a show. If you want to watch, find a spot on the riverbank below and give the divers room.

Walk the old bazaar and the old town

The old town is compact, so you do not need a strict plan. Here is what I always do:

• Walk Kujundziluk. This is the old bazaar, a stretch of cobbled lanes with small workshops and souvenir stalls. Look for hand-hammered copper work, the traditional craft here.
• Climb a minaret. The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque has a lovely view over the bridge and the river. Dress modestly and respect prayer times.
• Drink Bosnian coffee. Sit on a terrace near the water and take it slowly. Nobody will hurry you.
• Cross the river and look around. Away from the bazaar you will see war-scarred buildings next to freshly restored ones. It is a quiet reminder that people live in this city.

I like to end the day on the riverbank as the light goes soft. The groups have left, the stone turns warm, and it finally feels like a town again.

Eat and drink like a local

Food is one of the easiest things to enjoy in Mostar. Try cevapi, grilled minced meat served in flatbread with onions, and burek, a flaky pastry filled with meat, cheese or potato. Many restaurants have terraces over the river, which are lovely at sunset, though the tables with the best view are usually the busiest.

For a quieter meal, I walk a few streets away from the bridge. The portions are generous, the staff are friendly, and you pay a bit less. Finish with Bosnian coffee, served in a small copper pot with a sugar cube on the side.

Day trip to Blagaj and the Buna spring

If you have half a day extra, go to Blagaj. It is a short drive from Mostar, and for me it is one of the most beautiful places in Bosnia. The Blagaj Tekke is a Dervish monastery built against a tall limestone cliff, right where the Buna river bursts out of a cave. The water is a startling clear green and the whole scene is quiet and almost unreal.

There are small restaurants along the river with tables over the water. I order something simple, stay a while and listen to the spring. Go early if you can, because it gets busy once the day trip groups arrive.

Kravica waterfalls and Počitelj

The Kravica waterfalls make a good contrast to the old town. Water drops over a wide curved ledge into a pool surrounded by trees, and in warm weather people swim at the base. Bring a towel and water shoes, and check the season before you plan around swimming, because conditions change over the year.

On the way, stop at Počitelj. It is a hillside village of stone houses, a fortress and an old mosque, looking down on the Neretva. You can climb the steep paths up to the tower for the view. It is one of my favourite photo stops in the country.

Together, Blagaj, Počitelj and Kravica make a full day. Public transport between them is limited, so I would rent a car or join a local tour. For more ideas in the same region, browse my Bosnia guides.

Mostar as a day trip, and practical tips

Many people visit Mostar on a day trip, and it works. From Dubrovnik you cross the border and drive inland, so start early and bring your passport. My Croatia guides have more ideas for the rest of your coast trip. From Sarajevo the road runs through mountains and canyons and takes a bit over two hours.

A day trip gives you the bridge and the bazaar, but the evening is when the real Mostar shows up. If you can, sleep one night. A guesthouse in the old town gives you quiet streets at night and the call to prayer in the morning.

A few things to know before you go:

• Currency: Bosnia uses the convertible mark, written KM or BAM. Carry some for small shops and cafes, and check the current rate.
• When to go: spring and early autumn feel comfortable for walking. Midsummer brings heat and crowds, but it is the best time for swimming at Kravica.
• Respect: Mostar is a mixed city with mosques and churches. Dress modestly in religious buildings and ask before photographing people.

Mostar is best at a slow pace. If it makes you curious about the rest of the country, my Bosnia travel guides go further, from Sarajevo to the quiet corners most visitors miss.