Montenegro Packs a Lot into a Small Country

Every time someone asks me where to go in the Balkans for a short trip, I say Montenegro. The best things to do in Montenegro are spread across a country so small that you can swim in the Adriatic in the morning and stand at the edge of a deep canyon in the afternoon. I have never found another place where the scenery changes this fast. Here is what I do, and the route I would repeat.

Is Montenegro worth visiting?

Yes. The country is small enough that most drives between highlights take a couple of hours at most, so you spend your time looking at things instead of sitting in a car. It also feels less crowded and less polished than some of its neighbours. If you already enjoyed Croatia, Montenegro is the logical next step down the coast, with a rougher, wilder edge.

One practical thing surprised me on my first trip: Montenegro uses the euro, even though it is not part of the eurozone. No exchange counters and no calculating. You pay like you would at home in the Netherlands.

The coast: beaches, bays and fortified towns

Most people start on the coast. Budva is the lively base, with a compact old town on the water, plenty of restaurants and a busy beach scene. It is great for nightlife and people-watching, but I use it as a base rather than the whole trip.

A short drive away you reach Sveti Stefan, the little island village connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land. It is now a private resort, so you mostly admire it from the viewpoints and the beach next to it, but the photo is worth the stop. Further along the coast there are smaller beaches and quiet coves. If you walk a little further than everyone else, you can escape the summer crowds.

Kotor and the Bay of Kotor

If I could only show you one place, it would be Kotor. The Bay of Kotor looks like a fjord, with steep mountains dropping straight into calm water, and the old town at the end of it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside the walls you get narrow stone streets, small squares, churches and a surprising number of cats.

Climb up to the fortress walls early in the morning or late in the afternoon. It is a proper workout on uneven steps, so bring water and decent shoes, but the view over the bay is the best in the whole country. After that, drive the bay road to Perast, a quiet baroque town where small boats take you out to the island church of Our Lady of the Rocks. I could sit on that waterfront for hours.

Mountains and canyons: Durmitor and the Tara

Most people skip this part, and it is the part I love most. Head inland and the country turns into a different world. Durmitor National Park is a UNESCO site full of glacial lakes, limestone peaks and forests. The small town of Zabljak makes a good base for hiking in summer and skiing in winter.

Nearby runs the Tara Canyon, which counts among the deepest canyons in Europe. You can look down into it from the viewpoints, cross the high Djurdjevica Tara Bridge, or go rafting on the river for a more active day. Standing there a few hours after being on the beach is the contrast that makes this country special.

On the way between coast and mountains, Lovcen National Park is worth a detour. The road up from Kotor winds through a long series of hairpin bends, and at the top you reach the mausoleum of Petar II Petrovic Njegos, the poet and ruler many Montenegrins treat as a national hero. On a clear day the views go all the way to the sea.

A one-week Montenegro road trip

Montenegro is made for a road trip, and this is the route I would repeat. Rent a car, because public transport will not take you to the best spots.

• Days 1 and 2: land on the coast and settle in Budva. Visit the old town, Sveti Stefan and a beach.
• Days 3 and 4: move to the Bay of Kotor. Explore Kotor, climb the fortress, take the road to Perast.
• Day 5: drive over Lovcen and continue inland toward the mountains.
• Days 6 and 7: base yourself near Zabljak. Hike in Durmitor National Park and see the Tara Canyon.

If you have extra time, add Lake Skadar in the south, a huge lake with birdlife and small villages. Mountain roads here can be narrow and slow, so fill up the tank before heading into the hills and do not plan too much in one day. From the south you can also continue to Albania for a longer Balkan loop. On my own trips, the days I left empty were often the best ones, because that is when I found the quiet beach or the roadside restaurant with the view.

When to go

Summer, from June to August, is the beach season, and it is hot and busy on the coast. I would go in late spring or early autumn, when the sea is still pleasant, the towns are calmer and the hiking weather in the mountains is comfortable. Winter is for skiing around Durmitor, but expect some mountain roads to be tricky.

Plan your Montenegro trip

A small country can still make a complete holiday here, with sea, history, mountains and wild nature a few hours apart. If you want more ideas, from quiet beaches to the best viewpoints, have a look at all my Montenegro guides and start planning your own route.