Dubrovnik Beyond the City Walls
The best things to do in Dubrovnik: walking the old town walls, the Stradun, the cable car up Srd, Lokrum island, swimming below the walls and beating the crowds.
Dubrovnik is the one place on the Adriatic that lives up to its photos and makes you work for them. The old town is a compact knot of stone streets inside huge sea walls, and the water around it is a deep, clear blue. It is also busy and expensive, so the best things to do in Dubrovnik come down to picking the right hours as much as the right sights. Get that right and it is one of the finest small cities in Europe.
Is Dubrovnik worth it?
Yes, with eyes open. The setting is genuinely special, a walled town on a rocky point with the sea on three sides, and the main sights are the real thing rather than hype. But it gets packed, especially when the cruise ships are in, and prices are the highest I have paid anywhere in the Balkans. The trick is simple: go early, go late, and do not try to see everything in the middle of a hot, crowded afternoon.
Walking the Dubrovnik city walls
If you do one thing, walk the walls. The full loop runs about two kilometres along the top of the old fortifications, and it never stops giving you something to look at: the red rooftops packed below on one side, the open Adriatic and the island of Lokrum on the other. There are towers and forts to climb and plenty of spots to stop.
The ticket is not cheap and there is not much shade, so time it well. I went right when they opened, before the heat and the first big groups, and had long stretches almost to myself. The last couple of hours before closing are the other good window, with softer light for photos.
The Stradun and the Dubrovnik old town
Inside the walls, the Stradun is the main street, a wide polished limestone lane that runs the length of the old town and shines like glass in the evening. Off it, narrow stepped alleys climb up both sides, full of washing lines, cats and small doorways, and those side streets are where the old town feels most like a real place to live.
Wander without a map. You will pass old churches, the bell tower, the fountains near the gates and small squares where people sit out. Early morning before the day crowds arrive is the time to have it to yourself.
The Dubrovnik cable car up Srd
For the big view, take the cable car up Srd, the hill behind the town. In a few minutes you are at the top looking straight down on the walled old town, the sea and the islands, and it is the shot that makes the whole trip click into place. Go for sunset if you can, when the stone turns gold and the lights come on below. You can also walk or drive up if you would rather skip the cable car.
Lokrum, swimming and the sea
Dubrovnik is a sea town, so get in the water. Right below the city walls there are rocky spots where you can climb down and swim in deep, clear Adriatic water, including a well known bar wedged into the cliffs just outside the walls. For more room, take the short ferry to Lokrum island, a green car-free place with swimming spots, shade under the pines and a small salt lake. Bring water shoes, because most of the swimming here is off rocks, not sand.
Beating the crowds and the budget
Two things shape a good Dubrovnik trip: the crowds and the cost. For the crowds, find out when the cruise ships are docked and plan the walls and old town around the quieter windows, early and late. Staying overnight in or near the old town helps a lot, because the day-trippers leave in the afternoon and the evening belongs to the people who stayed.
For the budget, be realistic. Croatia uses the euro now and Dubrovnik is the priciest place in the region. Eat a street or two back from the main square, buy the walls ticket early, and swim at the free rocky spots. For the rest of the coast and where to go next, my Croatia guides cover the islands and the quieter towns that pair well with a couple of days here.
Frequently asked questions
Is Dubrovnik worth it?
Yes, but with eyes open. The walled old town and the sea around it are genuinely stunning, and the walls walk is one of the best in Europe. It is also crowded and pricey, more than anywhere else I have been in the Balkans. Go early or late, dodge the cruise hours, and it is well worth it.
How many days do you need in Dubrovnik?
Two days is the sweet spot for me. One for the city walls, the old town streets and the cable car, and a second for Lokrum island or a swim below the walls. A third day lets you slow down or take a boat trip. One rushed day misses the quiet morning and evening, which is when the city is at its best.
Are the Dubrovnik city walls worth the money?
Yes, the walls are the single best thing to do in Dubrovnik. The full loop runs about two kilometres along the top of the old fortifications, with the red rooftops on one side and the Adriatic on the other. Go right when they open or in the last hours of the day, both for the light and to avoid the heat and the queues.
How do you avoid the crowds in Dubrovnik?
Check when the cruise ships are in, because that is when the old town is busiest, and plan your walls and main streets around it. Early morning and the hour before sunset are the calmest and the prettiest. Staying overnight inside or near the old town helps, since the day-trippers leave in the late afternoon.
Can you swim in Dubrovnik old town?
Yes. There are spots right below the city walls where you can climb down to the rocks and swim in clear, deep Adriatic water, including a well known bar built into the cliffs outside the walls. Lokrum island, a short ferry away, has more swimming spots and shade under the pines. Bring water shoes for the rocks.
Is Dubrovnik expensive?
Yes, it is the most expensive place I have been in the region, well above the rest of the Balkans for food, drinks and the walls ticket. Croatia uses the euro now. You can keep costs down by eating a street away from the main square, buying the walls ticket in the morning and swimming at free rocky spots. Check current prices before you book.