Tirana, Albania's colourful capital

I almost skipped Tirana. On my first trip to Albania I had the beaches and the mountains lined up, and the capital felt like a place you pass through on the way to somewhere better. I was wrong. The best things to do in Tirana sit in a small, walkable centre, and the city is loud, colourful, a little chaotic and one of the most interesting capitals in the Balkans.

Is Tirana worth visiting?

Yes, and I would give it at least two full days. People ask me whether Tirana is worth visiting as if it were a toss-up, and it never is. It has a walkable centre, a food scene bigger than you would expect, communist history that is hard to believe until you see it, and a mountain on the doorstep.

It also feels alive. Things are being built, painted, torn down and reopened all the time, so the city you read about last year is already slightly different. Locals sit in cafes for hours, nobody rushes you, and the espresso is excellent. If you only know Albania from beach photos, Tirana will change your idea of the country.

The painted buildings

The first thing you notice is the colour. Grey communist-era blocks are covered in bold stripes, circles and bright patterns in yellow, orange, blue and green. This goes back to Edi Rama, a painter by training, who was mayor of Tirana from 2000 to 2011 and later became prime minister. He had the facades painted as a quick way to lift the mood of a drab, neglected city.

You can argue about the politics, but standing in front of a huge block in the middle of the day, it works. Ordinary streets feel like an open-air gallery. Walk around with your head up, because some of the best ones are not on any map.

Skanderbeg Square and the old centre

Skanderbeg Square is where I start every trip. It is named after the national hero Skanderbeg, who led the fight against the Ottomans in the 15th century, and his statue on horseback sits at one end. The square was redesigned and reopened as a large pedestrian space, and it is the natural meeting point of the city.

Around it you will find the Et’hem Bey Mosque, the Clock Tower, the Opera House and the National History Museum with its big mosaic on the front. Give yourself an hour here, then wander off in any direction. The old streets and the New Bazaar are a short walk away, and that is where I like to eat, snack and people-watch.

Bunk’Art and the cold-war side of Tirana

If you do one museum, make it Bunk’Art. Under the dictator Enver Hoxha, Albania built a staggering number of concrete bunkers, and a few of the larger ones have been turned into museums. Bunk’Art 1 sits in a huge underground bunker on the edge of the city, on the way towards the mountain. Bunk’Art 2 is in the centre, near the old Ministry of Internal Affairs, and focuses on the police and the secret service.

It is not an easy visit, and I did not expect it to hit me as hard as it did. But it explains a lot about modern Albania: why the country was so closed, why it is changing so fast now, and why people here talk about the past with a mix of humour and weight. Go with time to spare and read the stories.

The Pyramid of Tirana is another landmark worth seeing. It was built as a museum dedicated to Hoxha, then went through several lives as a conference centre and a TV station. It has since reopened as a space for young people and technology, and you can walk up the sloping sides for a view over the city. It is odd, photogenic and very Tirana.

Blloku after dark

Blloku is the district everyone ends up in at night. For decades it was closed to ordinary Albanians because the communist elite lived there, Hoxha included. Today it is a tight grid of bars, restaurants, cafes and clubs where the whole city goes out.

For Tirana nightlife, Blloku is the easy answer. I usually start with a coffee or an aperitivo in the late afternoon, move on to dinner, and then let the evening drift from bar to bar. The crowd is young, local and friendly, and within a few streets you can find a quiet cocktail spot or a loud dance floor.

Dajti, the park and other easy extras

If you have extra time, this is what I would add:

• Take the Dajti Ekspres cable car up Dajti mountain. It is a quick way to escape the heat and noise, and the views back over the city are great.
• Walk or sit in the Grand Park and around the Artificial Lake, where locals go to relax.
• Eat well. Try traditional Albanian dishes at a local restaurant and do not skip the byrek.
• Spend an afternoon in the cafes. It is part of the experience, not a waste of time.

Plan your Tirana trip

Tirana works as a base or as a two or three day city break. I like to pair it with the coast or the mountains afterwards, since the rest of the country is only a bus or drive away. The city is walkable, taxis are easy, and you can cover the main sights without a car.

My Albania guides go deeper into where to go next, from the beaches in the south to the northern mountains. If you are planning a wider Balkan trip, have a look at my guide to North Macedonia, which is easy to combine with Albania.