Switzerland by train: peaks and lakes

When I put together my article on the best train countries in Europe, Switzerland was the one where the train is the whole point of the trip. So when people ask me for the best things to do in Switzerland, I start with the rails. I am Dutch, so I am used to flat landscapes and trains that mostly take you to a meeting. Swiss trains take you somewhere you want to look at.

This is my country overview: the scenic trains, the mountain bases, the lakes and a realistic look at the budget. For place by place detail, my Switzerland guides go deeper.

Why Switzerland works so well by train

You do not need a car here. Regular Swiss trains are clean, frequent and connected to buses, boats and mountain railways, so a city, a lake and a peak can fit into one day without stress. That is why almost everything on my list of the best things to do in Switzerland is reachable on rails.

The scenic trains are a different category. They are slow on purpose, they have big windows, and the route is the product. I would build a first trip around at least one of them.

The Glacier Express: Zermatt to St. Moritz

The Glacier Express is the famous one, running between Zermatt and St. Moritz. Set aside around eight hours for a long, unhurried ride through valleys, over bridges and past mountain villages. Nobody takes it to get anywhere fast. You pick a window seat, bring snacks, and watch the Alps slide by.

One thing to know before you plan: panoramic trains like this require a paid seat reservation on top of your ticket or pass. Book ahead, especially in high season, because you do not want to find out at the station that the seats are gone.

The Bernina Express: Chur to Tirano

The Bernina Express runs between Chur and Tirano over the Albula and Bernina lines, which are UNESCO listed. This is the one that surprised me most. The route crosses viaducts, goes through tunnels and winds up in spirals, and you feel how much engineering went into the line. It also crosses the border into Italy, so you end the day in a completely different atmosphere. If you want to continue south afterwards, my Italy guides pick up from there.

The same rule applies: the panoramic cars need a seat reservation. If your dates are fixed, reserve early.

The best mountain bases and lakes

You do not need to see everything. I would choose two or three bases and stay put for a few nights. That is cheaper and calmer, and you remember the places.

• Zurich: the easiest arrival point, with an old town, a lake and excellent connections. A good first or last night.
• Lucerne: my pick for first-timers. It has the lake, the old wooden bridge and mountain day trips by boat and rail, all in a compact town.
• Interlaken: a practical base between two lakes, with trains and boats in every direction.
• The Jungfrau region: Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald are the postcard villages, and they are the gateway to the high mountain railways. Check the weather before paying for any summit trip, because the view depends entirely on the clouds.
• Zermatt: the end of the Glacier Express line and the foot of the Matterhorn. A car-free village that feels like a mountain film set.

The lakes deserve their own mention. A boat ride on Lake Lucerne or Lake Thun is one of the cheapest and most relaxing ways to see the country, and it often fits into a pass or a regional ticket. If you like this kind of Alpine travel, my Austria guides are a good second chapter, usually at a gentler price.

Is Switzerland expensive?

Yes, and I will not pretend otherwise. Switzerland uses the Swiss franc, not the euro, and it is one of the most expensive countries I travel in. Restaurants, mountain lifts and even a simple lunch cost noticeably more than in most of Europe. Whenever I compare costs across Europe, Switzerland is the outlier.

What helps, from my own trips:

• Look at the Swiss Travel Pass. It covers many trains, buses and boats, and gives you access to a number of museums. It can save money if you travel a lot, but do the maths for your own route first. The panoramic trains still need a reservation fee on top.
• Eat smart. Supermarket lunches, picnics by the lake and one proper dinner a day keep the bill sane.
• Be selective with mountain tickets. Pick the one or two you really want instead of buying every summit.
• Stay slightly outside the famous spots. Smaller towns near the big bases often cost less.

Check current prices on the official operator sites before you book, because fares and pass rules change from year to year.

A simple Switzerland itinerary

If I had one week, I would do this: fly into Zurich, spend a night there, go to Lucerne for two nights, continue to the Jungfrau region or Interlaken for two, and finish with a panoramic train day. For the Glacier Express you end up in Zermatt or St. Moritz, and for the Bernina Express you finish in Tirano, so plan your return leg in advance.

Keep one day loose for the weather. Mountains do not care about your schedule, and the best day of my trip is usually the one I moved at the last minute because the clouds cleared.

My verdict

Switzerland is the expensive option and it will stay that way. If you love mountains, lakes and trains, it still gives you one of the most rewarding trips in Europe, and the cost is easier to accept when you plan around two or three bases instead of trying to see it all.

Want more help planning? Browse my Switzerland guides for the full list of places, routes and tips.