A Weekend in Kotor

Kotor slows you down the moment you walk through the gate. Mountains drop almost straight into the water, a medieval town is squeezed in between, and a wall climbs the hillside behind it. I kept coming back to Kotor on my trips to Montenegro, so here are the best things to do in Kotor, in the order I would do them.

Get lost in the Kotor old town

The Kotor old town is a maze of stone lanes, small squares and churches, all inside the town walls. It is UNESCO listed, and you feel why as soon as you start walking. Nothing runs in a straight line, so every corner gives you a new view.

Skip the map for the first hour. Walk in through the main gate, pick a lane that looks interesting and keep going. Sooner or later you end up on one of the little squares with a church, a café and a few cats looking unbothered. You will find your way out again, and that is part of the fun.

Inside the walls I liked sitting on a square with a coffee and watching the town go by. I also ducked into the small churches, which are usually quiet even when the lanes are busy. The best hour is the evening, when the day trippers have gone and the stone looks warm.

Climb the Kotor city walls to the fortress

This is the one thing I would not skip. The Kotor city walls zigzag up the mountain behind the town, all the way to St John’s Fortress (San Giovanni). The steps are uneven and the climb takes real effort, but the view from the top is why so many photos of Montenegro are taken here.

From up there you see the roofs of the old town, the water of the bay and the mountains folding into each other. It looks like a fjord, though technically it is a drowned river canyon, a ria.

What I learned on my own climb:

• Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Midday means heat and a queue on the steps.
• Wear shoes with grip. The stones are worn smooth in places.
• Bring water. There is not much on the way up.
• Use the bends as an excuse to stop and look back.
• Check the current ticket rules and opening hours before you go.

Explore the Bay of Kotor and Perast

The Bay of Kotor is a long, winding inlet with small villages tucked along the shore, and a drive or boat ride around it is easily one of the best things to do in Kotor.

My favorite stop was Perast, a quiet stone village a short drive from Kotor. Just off the shore you can see Our Lady of the Rocks, a small island with a church on it, and a short boat ride from Perast takes you there. Perast itself is good for a slow lunch with a view of the water. If you only have time for one day trip from Kotor, make it this one.

If you have a car, take the coastal road slowly. Without one, local buses and boat trips do the job.

Take it slow: coffee, churches and a swim

Not every stop has to be a sight. Some of my best moments in Kotor were unplanned. I sat on a square for an hour with nothing to do, and I would do it again.

In summer the bay is warm enough for a swim, which feels like a small reward after the fortress climb. In the evening the old town turns calm and golden, and that is when I like it most.

How to dodge the cruise-ship crowds

The town sits at the end of the bay, and cruise ships dock right by the walls. When a few of them are in, the narrow lanes fill up fast around midday. When they leave, the place changes completely. You can still enjoy Kotor in busy periods if you plan around the ships. This is what worked for me:

• Arrive early. The old town in the morning light, before the groups arrive, is a different place.
• Climb the fortress first, then wander the lanes while everyone else queues for lunch.
• Leave the old town around midday and head out along the bay to Perast.
• Come back in the late afternoon or evening when the ships have sailed.
• Stay at least one night. You get the town to yourself in the evening and early morning, and nothing else beats that.

Practical tips for your visit

Montenegro uses the euro, so you do not need to exchange anything if you are coming from the eurozone. Most places in the old town accept cards, but I like having a bit of cash for small cafés and bakeries.

The old town is walkable and car free. Park outside the walls and walk in. Stone lanes are pretty but hard on the feet, so bring comfortable shoes. If you sleep inside or just outside the old town, the evenings are far more relaxed than on a day trip.

For good weather and fewer people, I would aim for spring or early autumn. Summer is hot and busy, but the bay is at its best for a swim.

Is Kotor worth visiting? For me, yes. The old town, the fortress climb and the bay are three very different outings within a few minutes of each other. Go early, stay a night and leave time to get lost.

Kotor is one piece of a small country with a lot going on. For more ideas, have a look at my Montenegro guides. If you are planning a longer trip along the coast, my Croatia guides are a good next stop, and the Albania guides are worth a look if you are heading further south.