Zadar: Sea Organ, Sunsets and Roman Ruins

Zadar surprised me. I had it down as a ferry port, a place you pass through on the way to the islands, and I nearly did exactly that. Then I stayed two nights and found one of the most relaxed towns on the Croatian coast. The best things to do in Zadar are packed into a small stone peninsula, and a lot of them cost nothing.

Is Zadar worth visiting?

Yes, and I would give it at least a full day and an evening. People ask me whether Zadar is worth visiting when they are choosing between here and Split, and I always say stop in Zadar. It is smaller, calmer and easier on your wallet, the old town fits on a peninsula you can walk end to end in about fifteen minutes, and it has a couple of landmarks you will not find anywhere else.

It also has layers. Romans, Venetians and a heavy rebuild after the last war have all left their mark, so you get ancient columns, Venetian gates and plain modern stone sitting side by side. Nobody is rushing you, the coffee is good, and the sea is always a street or two away.

The Sea Organ and the Greeting to the Sun

At the far tip of the peninsula the waterfront drops down to the sea in wide marble steps, and under those steps sit the pipes of the Sea Organ. Waves push air up through them and the whole quay hums, breathes and sighs. It is never the same twice, and on a day with a bit of swell it genuinely sounds like an instrument. I sat there far longer than I meant to.

Right next to it is the Greeting to the Sun, a big circle of glass panels set flat into the pavement. It soaks up sunlight all day and glows in shifting colours once it gets dark. Kids run across it, people sit around the rim, and it turns into a slow outdoor party at dusk. The Zadar Sea Organ and this circle together are the thing most people come for, and both are free.

Zadar old town and the Roman forum

Walk back into the old town and you hit the Roman forum, the largest on this side of the Adriatic. Fallen columns and worn stone lie scattered on the grass, and one tall pillar still stands where public punishments once happened. Next to it is the round church of St Donatus, built partly from Roman stone, and the cathedral of St Anastasia, whose bell tower you can climb for a view over the rooftops and the sea.

From there the old town is yours to wander. Narrow marble lanes, small squares, the People’s Square with its old loggia, and market stalls selling fruit and cheese. Give it a couple of hours with no plan and you will find most of it by accident.

The best Zadar sunset

Alfred Hitchcock once said Zadar has the most beautiful sunset in the world, and the town has never let anyone forget it. I am usually sceptical about that kind of line, but the Zadar sunset earns it. The peninsula faces west over the open sea and the islands, so the sky has nothing in the way.

My routine is simple. Grab a drink, find a spot on the Sea Organ steps with the pipes playing underneath, and watch the sun drop behind the islands while the glass circle starts to glow. It is the easiest good evening I know of on this coast.

Where I eat in Zadar

A few streets back from the water, prices come down and the food gets better. I go for grilled fish, black risotto made with cuttlefish ink, and plates of Dalmatian prsut with sheep cheese from the nearby island of Pag. For something quick and cheap there are bakeries selling burek, a flaky pastry filled with meat or cheese that keeps you going all afternoon.

Day trips from Zadar

If you have more time, Zadar makes a good base. Boats run out to the Kornati islands, a maze of bare stone islets scattered across the sea, and the famous lakes with their waterfalls and boardwalks are within reach for a long day by car or bus. I treat both as a bonus rather than the reason to come, because the town itself is enough for a short stay.

Plan your Zadar trip

Croatia uses the euro now, and Zadar is clearly cheaper than Split or Dubrovnik, especially for food and drink. The old town is walkable and you do not need a car to see it. Buses and the airport connect it to the rest of the coast, so it slots easily into a wider trip. Check current prices before you book, since the coast moves with the season.

My Croatia guides go into where to head next, from the islands to the national parks inland.