Chisinau, Europe's least-visited capital

Most people cannot point to Moldova on a map, which is part of why I went. After a few days there I think the crowds are missing out. This is my list of the best things to do in Chisinau: what is worth your time in the city, which wine cellars and day trips are worth leaving it for, and what to expect once you arrive.

Is Chisinau worth visiting?

Yes, but do not expect a postcard. Chisinau is a Soviet-planned city with wide boulevards, big concrete blocks and leafy parks, with plenty of character mixed in. It is not polished, and I liked it more for that. The pace is slow, cafes and bars fill the centre, and nobody is performing for tourists because there are barely any.

If you want a pretty old town, this is not it. If you want a capital that still feels real, with Romanian and Russian both in the air, it is hard to beat. Give it two or three days: one for the city, one for a winery and a spare for wandering.

Walk the centre around the Triumphal Arch

The Triumphal Arch marks the middle of town, and the main avenue around it is the easiest way to get your bearings on foot. I started every day here. From the arch you can drift along the boulevard, past Soviet-era buildings and newer cafes, without a plan and still see most of the core.

In the evening, head to the streets of the old centre. They are not fancy, and that is the charm. Pick a terrace, order something local and watch the city go by. I kept staying an hour longer than I meant to.

Parks and green space

The Soviet planners left Chisinau with a lot of trees, and the parks are one of the best things about it. They break up the concrete and give the city a calm, lived-in feel.

Valea Morilor Park is the big one, a large green space with a lake. I went there for a break after a morning of walking, and it was full of locals strolling, jogging and doing nothing in particular. The central park near the middle of town is smaller but just as good for a shaded bench and a coffee. If you only visit one park, make it Valea Morilor.

The Central Market

The Central Market is a big open-air market where locals actually shop, and it is the best place to see daily life in the city. Go hungry, bring cash and walk slowly. I wandered through the stalls for far longer than planned, picking up snacks and watching people haggle over produce.

Card acceptance gets patchy fast outside the centre, so keep some leu on you. The leu (MDL) is the local currency. In the market, keep your phone and wallet close, as you would in any busy place.

Underground wine: Cricova and Milestii Mici

Moldova is a serious wine country, and the cellars are underground. Two names come up again and again, and both are roughly 30 minutes by car from the city, so they work as easy half-day trips.

• Cricova is a huge network of underground tunnels turned into a wine city, with streets named after wine varieties. Estimates of the tunnel length run from 80 to 120 km, so I will not give you a single number. You tour it in a small vehicle, and the tasting at the end is part of the deal.
• Milestii Mici is known for its enormous collection, with over two million bottles reported. It feels different from Cricova, more like a vast working cellar than a showroom.

You do not need to do both. Pick Cricova for the spectacle or Milestii Mici for the sheer scale. Book ahead for tours and tastings, and do not drive afterwards. Tours usually include pickup, which solves that problem.

Orheiul Vechi and the Soviet past

If you have a spare day, Orheiul Vechi is the other trip I would make from Chisinau. It is a cliffside site above a river gorge with an old cave monastery, and it is a big change from the city. Organised tours leave from Chisinau, or you can arrange a driver. Check current timings before you go so you do not arrive after closing.

Back in town, the Soviet past is everywhere. Moldova was part of the Soviet Union until 1991, and Chisinau shows it in the architecture, the street layout and the apartment blocks you see from almost any window. I found it fascinating. You can read the era in the buildings without stepping into a museum.

Many visitors also consider a day trip to Transnistria, the breakaway strip east of the Dniester that is not internationally recognised. I would only go with up-to-date official travel advice for your passport, and I would check any crossing before you leave, not on the day.

Getting there, costs and when to go

Chisinau International Airport is about 13 km southeast of the centre. Airlines such as airBaltic list flights there. A trolleybus runs between the airport and the centre, and a taxi is the easy option if you arrive late. Buses and trains also connect the city with neighbouring countries. Many travellers come in from Romania, so it fits neatly into a trip through Romania. Entry rules depend on your passport, so check the official Moldovan government site before booking.

On costs, I could not verify a reliable current price list, and I would rather tell you that than make up numbers. Moldova is generally considered a budget destination in Europe, and city transport is cheap. Tours and tastings are where your money goes.

I felt fine in the city. Normal rules apply: take a licensed taxi or use a ride app at night. For timing, late spring and early autumn are my favourites, with mild weather and the vineyards looking their best.

I cover the country more broadly on my Moldova page. If you are planning a trip to Chisinau, send me a message on Instagram and I will tell you what I would do differently.