Gdansk on the Baltic: Poland's great port city

Every time I plan a trip to Poland, someone asks me the same thing: “Is Gdansk worth visiting, or should I just do Krakow?” My answer is always to go to Gdansk. It is a port city with gabled merchant houses, a river lined with old cranes, a heavy and important history, and a beach town twenty minutes up the coast. Here are the best things to do in Gdansk, in the order I would do them again.

Walk the Long Market and the Old Town

Start in the middle of the Gdansk old town, on the Long Market (Dlugi Targ). It is a long, elegant street rather than a square, lined with colourful, richly decorated townhouses. In the middle stands the Neptune Fountain, one of the best known landmarks in the city, and next to it the old Artus Court. I come early in the morning when the light is soft and the street is almost empty, which is the best time for photos.

From there I follow the Royal Way, the ceremonial route through the old town, and pass through the Green Gate to reach the Motlawa river. Take this part slowly. Look up at the facades, the carved details and the steep stepped gables.

Most of what you see was rebuilt. The city centre was heavily damaged in 1945 and was reconstructed over the following decades, using old paintings and records as a guide. That makes the place even more impressive to me: the city decided to bring its own history back.

Amber, Mariacka Street and the waterfront

Amber is the local trade, and Mariacka Street is where you feel it most. It is a short, atmospheric cobbled lane behind St Mary’s Church, with raised stone terraces in front of the houses, gargoyle drainpipes and small workshops selling amber jewellery. Gdansk has a long link with Baltic amber, so this is a good place to buy something small and genuinely local.

Take your time and compare. I ask the seller about the stone and how it was made, and I never feel rushed. Prices are in Polish zloty, so I keep a little cash handy, although cards are widely accepted.

Afterwards I walk along the Motlawa waterfront. The medieval wooden crane is the symbol of the old port, and the boats, bars and restaurants along the river are made for a long lunch or an evening stroll. I also like climbing the tower of St Mary’s Church, one of the largest brick churches in the world, for a proper view across the red roofs.

The Solidarity story at the shipyard

Gdansk has more to it than pretty streets. The Solidarity movement was born here in 1980, in the shipyard, and it changed the political history of Poland and of Europe. The European Solidarity Centre, right by the old shipyard gates, tells that story in a modern, well made museum.

I went in not knowing much, and I left with a lot more respect for the ordinary workers who risked so much. Give it a couple of hours. It is moving, and it makes the rest of the city make more sense. If you only do one museum on your trip, I would pick this one.

Westerplatte and the start of World War II

Westerplatte is a quiet, windswept peninsula at the mouth of the port, and it is where the Second World War began. On 1 September 1939, German forces attacked the Polish military transit depot here, and the Polish defenders held out for several days against a much stronger force.

Today it is a memorial site, with the remains of the guardhouses and a large monument on the hill. I went slowly. It is a place for reflection, and I would not squeeze it between photo stops. In summer you can get there by boat from the centre, and otherwise by public transport, and the trip makes a good half day. If you want the wider context, pair it with the Museum of the Second World War in the city. It is a heavy visit, so I plan something gentle for the evening afterwards.

Day trips: Sopot and Malbork Castle

Gdansk is one third of the Tricity area, together with Sopot and Gdynia. Sopot is a short train ride away, and it is the relaxed seaside option, with a beach, a long wooden pier and a lively main street. It is good for an easy afternoon when you want sand and sea air after the museums.

For something bigger, take the train to Malbork Castle, the huge brick fortress of the Teutonic Knights. It is one of the largest castles in Europe, and it is easy to reach from Gdansk. Both trips are simple without a car, so you can base yourself in Gdansk the whole time. If you are building a longer route, my Poland guides show how Gdansk fits with the rest of the country, and my Lithuania guides are a natural next step around the Baltic.

Practical tips for your Gdansk trip

Here is what I keep in mind when I go:

• Walking: the old town is compact, so I do most things on foot.
• Trains and trams: easy and cheap enough for Sopot and Westerplatte.
• Weather: the Baltic can be windy and changeable, so I pack a layer, even in summer.
• Cards and cash: cards work almost everywhere, but a little zloty helps at small stalls.
• Time: two full days cover the highlights, and three days let you add Sopot and Malbork.

Is Gdansk worth visiting? For me it is one of the best city breaks in Poland. If you want to see more of the country, browse all my Poland guides and plan your next route from there.