Hungary Beyond Budapest

Is Hungary worth visiting?

Yes, and for much longer than a city break. Most people fly into Budapest, tick off the big sights and go home. I did exactly that on my first trip. On my later trips I kept pulling the map wider, and that is where Hungary won me over.

This guide to the best things to do in Hungary is built from those trips. It covers the capital, but most of it is about what lies around it: a huge lake, hilltop castles, wine cellars you can walk into and a bathing culture that makes every town feel a bit slower and warmer. It is one of the best value countries in Central Europe, and it still feels far less crowded than its neighbours.

Budapest and its baths

Start in Budapest, because it earns its reputation. The Danube splits the city into hilly Buda and flat Pest, and the best way to understand it is to walk across a bridge at dusk and watch the Parliament building light up.

Then go to the baths. Széchenyi and Gellért are the famous ones, and both are worth it. Széchenyi is the big outdoor complex with the yellow buildings, and Gellért is the grand Art Nouveau one. Go early in the day if you can, because the crowds build up fast.

In the evening, head to the old Jewish Quarter for the ruin bars. These are bars built inside crumbling old buildings and courtyards, full of mismatched furniture. Give Budapest three days, but do not stop there. I wrote a separate piece on the city itself in my Hungary guides.

Lake Balaton: the Hungarian sea

Lake Balaton is the largest lake in Central Europe, and Hungarians treat it like a seaside. In summer the shore fills with families, sailors and festival crowds. Out of peak season it turns quiet and almost melancholy, which I like even more.

The north shore is where I spend most of my time. The Tihany peninsula has a hilltop abbey, lavender fields and views over the water that look painted. Balatonfüred is a relaxed promenade town with cafés, and the hills behind the lake are covered in vineyards. Rent a bike and ride a stretch of the shore path if you want to feel the lake at your own pace.

South of the lake the water is shallower and warmer, which is why families love that side. If you want a calm swim, start there. If you want scenery and wine, choose the north.

The thermal culture beyond the capital

The bathing culture surprised me by going well beyond Budapest. Hungary sits on top of a lot of hot water, and almost every town has a thermal bath. Locals use them like we use a gym or a café. People meet, play chess in the water and stay for hours.

Near the western end of Lake Balaton you can find Hévíz, home to a famous thermal lake where you can float among water lilies. Floating in warm water while it rains is a travel moment I did not know I needed.

Pack swimwear everywhere you go in Hungary, and check the opening hours and rules of each bath before you head out. Some have separate sections, some need a swimming cap and details change.

Eger, Tokaj and Hungarian wine

Eger is the town that made me fall for Hungarian wine. It is a small baroque town in the north of the country, with a castle on the hill and a minaret left over from the Ottoman era. The castle is tied to a famous siege in 1552, and locals still tell the story with pride.

The wine is just as good. Eger is home to Egri Bikavér, the red blend known in English as Bull’s Blood. The name comes from a legend about the defenders drinking red wine during the siege. Legend or not, the wine is excellent.

Walk out to the Valley of the Beautiful Women (Szépasszony-völgy), where rows of cellars open their doors for tasting. Pick a few, sit down and let the afternoon disappear.

Tokaj is the other big name. The Tokaj wine region in the northeast is recognised by UNESCO as a cultural landscape, and it is famous for Tokaji Aszú, the sweet wine that kings once loved. I suggest a night or two in the area. Visit a cellar, ask about the different styles and take time with each glass. You do not need to know anything about wine to enjoy it, and the producers are usually happy to explain.

Pécs and the sunny south

Pécs sits in the south, close to the Croatian border, and it feels different from the rest of the country. The light is warmer, the pace is slower and the city has a Mediterranean mood that surprised me.

It has a mix of history. There is an Early Christian necropolis recognised by UNESCO, a cathedral and a former mosque that is now a church on the main square. Pécs is also known for Zsolnay ceramics, and you will spot the colourful tiles on buildings all over town. Spend a day or two here, have coffee on the square and wander the museum streets.

A simple Hungary itinerary

Hungary uses the forint, not the euro, so check the exchange rate before you go and keep a little cash for small cafés and cellars. Cards work in most places, but not everywhere.

Trains and buses connect most of the places in this guide, and Budapest is the natural hub. A rental car gives you more freedom around Lake Balaton and the wine regions. Combine Hungary with a trip to Austria if you want a train ride between Vienna and Budapest, or continue east into Romania for a bigger adventure.

For a first trip I would suggest this rough plan: three days in Budapest, two days around Lake Balaton and two days in Eger. If you have more time, add Pécs and Tokaj. That lets you see Hungary beyond Budapest without rushing.

For the full details, route ideas and my favourite places, head over to my Hungary guides and start planning.