There's more to Czechia than Prague

I have been to Czechia more than once now, and every time I leave with the same feeling: most people only see a tenth of it. They land in Prague, walk across the Charles Bridge, drink a few beers and fly home. That makes a great weekend, but it is only a small part of the country. This is my list of the best things to do in Czechia, the way I would plan it if you asked me over a pint.

Is Prague worth visiting?

Yes. People love to be contrarian about it, but the Old Town Square, the castle above the river and the little lanes behind the main streets earn their reputation.

Timing matters. I go early in the morning, when the Charles Bridge is almost empty and the light is soft, and I leave the busiest streets to the tour groups by midday. Then I spend the afternoon in a neighbourhood a few tram stops away, where the cafes are full of locals and not of people holding a map.

Give Prague two or three days. After that, the better question is what else Czechia has to offer. The answer is a lot.

Cesky Krumlov, the fairytale town

If you add only one place to your route, make it Cesky Krumlov in the south of Bohemia. The Vltava river loops around the old town in tight bends, and the castle tower rises over red roofs. The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you see why within five minutes of arriving.

What I like to do there is simple:

• Walk up to the castle gardens and the tower for the view of the river bends.
• Get lost in the side streets once the day trippers leave.
• Rent a canoe or raft on the river if the weather is warm.

Stay a night if you can. In the evening the town is quiet and lit by street lamps, and that is when it feels most like a storybook.

Brno, the city that surprised me

Brno is the second largest city in the country, and it feels nothing like Prague. It is a student town with a relaxed, slightly rebellious mood. I came for a day and ended up staying longer.

Spilberk castle watches over the centre, and the Vegetable Market square is where locals still shop for produce. Villa Tugendhat, a modernist house on the UNESCO list, is worth a visit if you like architecture. The cafe and cocktail scene is strong too, with plenty of small places where nobody is in a hurry.

Brno is an easy train ride from Prague, so it fits into almost any route. If you want a city with a local rhythm, this is it.

Kutna Hora, a day trip with a dark twist

Kutna Hora grew rich on silver mining in the Middle Ages, and its Gothic cathedral of St Barbara, another UNESCO site, shows it. It is a calm, lovely town and an easy day trip from Prague by train.

The famous stop is the Sedlec Ossuary, a small chapel decorated with human bones. It sounds morbid, and it is, but it is also one of the strangest and most memorable places I have visited. Go in with respect and a bit of curiosity.

Moravia: wine country around Mikulov

Most visitors think of beer first, so the wine surprises them. South Moravia, around Mikulov and the Palava hills, is the heart of Czech winemaking. Rolling vineyards, small family cellars and cycling paths between villages make it one of my favourite places to slow down.

Rent a bike, stop at a cellar when something looks inviting and try the local whites. Ask the winemaker what they would pour with dinner. They always have an opinion, and it is usually right.

Mikulov is close to the Austrian border, so it pairs well with Vienna if you want to keep going. Have a look at my Austria guides for ideas.

Czech beer and the pub habit

Czech beer is a point of national pride, and the country is known as one of the biggest beer-drinking nations in the world. The pub is a social living room here, and people go to meet as much as to drink.

Pilsen is the pilgrimage stop. The pilsner style was born in this city in 1842, and you can tour the brewery and its cool underground cellars. A fresh pilsner poured right there will show you why it changed beer for good.

A few habits I picked up:

• Order a half litre and expect a refill to arrive without asking, unless you tell the waiter you are done.
• Try the dark lager too. It is an underrated Czech classic.
• Pair it with a plate of local comfort food and take your time.

Pilsen is in the west, not far from Bavaria, so beer lovers can easily link it with my Germany guides.

A Czechia itinerary and practical tips

Czechia uses the koruna, not the euro, so check your card fees and carry a little local cash for small places. Trains and buses connect the main cities well, and I rarely needed a car except in the wine region, where a bike works even better.

For a first trip of about a week, my route is Prague, then Kutna Hora, Cesky Krumlov, Brno and finally the wine villages near Mikulov. If you have less time, drop Moravia and keep the rest. That fills a week without feeling rushed.

If you are planning your route, start with my full Czechia guides and build the trip from there.