Inside Skopje, North Macedonia's offbeat capital

Ten minutes after arriving in a capital city, I was laughing out loud. I stood in central Skopje craning my neck at a bronze figure on a plinth, then another, then a fountain with even more of them. This is my guide to the best things to do in Skopje, based on my own trips. The city is a little confusing and a little over the top, and it is a lot more fun than its reputation suggests.

Is Skopje worth visiting?

Yes, especially if you like places with a bit of personality. Skopje is not pretty in the postcard sense. It mixes Ottoman lanes, brutalist concrete and a very loud new city centre. An earthquake flattened most of the old town in 1963, and the rebuilding has been argued over ever since.

I would not build a whole holiday around it, but I would give it two or three days, ideally as part of a wider trip through the Balkans. It is walkable, cheap and the food is great. If you are weighing it up against other stops, my North Macedonia guides will help you plan the rest of the route.

The statues of Skopje 2014

Let’s talk about the elephant in the square, or rather the warrior on a horse. In the 2010s the government launched a project called Skopje 2014, which gave the centre neoclassical facades, new museums, bridges, fountains and a huge number of statues. The giant rider in Macedonia Square is officially just called Warrior on a Horse, though everyone knows who it is meant to be.

Opinion is properly divided. Some locals see the makeover as a proud statement of identity. Others call it kitsch and expensive, and I heard both views from people I met. I will not pretend to settle the argument. To me it is theatrical, sometimes absurd and strangely photogenic. Walk the square in the evening when everything is lit up and decide for yourself. Just do not expect subtle.

More things to do in the centre

The centre is compact, so you can see the main sights on foot in a day. This is what I would put on your list:

• Macedonia Square and the pedestrian streets. Start here, look at the statues, then follow the river.
• The Stone Bridge. This old arched bridge over the Vardar River is the symbol of the city and dates back to Ottoman times. It links the new centre to the old side of town, and it is the best place to people-watch.
• Kale Fortress. Climb up for views over the rooftops and the river. It is a quiet hilltop where locals hang out rather than a polished attraction, and I liked it more for that.
• Mother Teresa Memorial House. She was born in Skopje, and a small memorial near the centre is dedicated to her. It is simple and calm, a nice break from the noise outside.
• The museums. There are plenty, from history to archaeology, so they make a solid rainy day plan.

If you only have one afternoon, do the square and the Stone Bridge, then slip into the old bazaar.

The Skopje old bazaar

This is the part of the city I would not skip. The Old Bazaar, or Čaršija, is one of the largest and oldest in the Balkans, and it sits right across the Stone Bridge from the modern centre. The contrast is wild. You leave the marble and bronze behind and step into cobbled lanes with old mosques, hammams, caravanserais and tiny workshops.

Go slowly. Look into the craft shops, drink strong coffee in a courtyard and have something grilled for lunch. I will not quote prices because they change, but eating out was comfortably cheaper than back home, which is a big part of why Europe feels so affordable once you head east. Evenings are lively too, with cafes and restaurants spilling onto the streets.

Go once during the day and once after dark. It feels like two different neighbourhoods.

Day trip to Matka Canyon

When the city gets too much, head out to Matka Canyon. It is a short trip from the centre, usually by taxi, rental car or organised tour. Matka is a deep green gorge with a lake, steep rocky walls and small medieval monasteries tucked into the hillsides.

I recommend taking a boat out on the water and, if conditions allow, visiting the caves. The paths along the canyon are lovely and much quieter than the capital. Bring proper shoes, a bit of cash and a camera. Check opening times and boat availability before you go, since both depend on the season and the weather. After a day of statues and traffic, Matka was the reset I needed, and it is the main reason I would say Skopje works as a base for nature as well as culture.

Practical tips for your Skopje trip

• Getting around: the centre and the bazaar are easy on foot. For Matka, arrange a taxi or tour in advance.
• Money: the country uses the Macedonian denar, so withdraw some local cash before you wander into the bazaar. Keep it for small cafes and market stalls.
• When to go: spring and early autumn are comfortable for walking. Summers can be hot.
• How long: two days for the city, three if you add Matka Canyon.
• Onward travel: Skopje is a good starting point for the rest of the region. Albania is a natural next stop, so have a look at my Albania travel guides.

My verdict

Skopje will not be the most beautiful city on your trip, and that is why I liked it. It is odd, opinionated, affordable and full of stories. Come with an open mind, laugh at the statues if you want to, then lose yourself in the old bazaar and let the canyon clear your head.

For more ideas, routes and tips from my own trips, head over to my North Macedonia guides.